Sunday, October 6, 2013

Coast Trip

Never had I ever predicted that I'd be in full snow gear on a Labor Day weekend. So here's how that came to happen...

A teacher friend, Jamie, asked if I'd want to go to the coast, meaning the Bering Sea, over Labor Day weekend. We'd leave Friday night and get back Sunday, having time to recuperate and prepare for the week on Monday.

Matt and Sarah, tour guides extraordinaire.
Well, sure, I'm game for that. It would be foolish to turn down an opportunity to travel the Yukon by speedboat to the Bering Sea! We would be looking for a seal or possibly a whale to harvest and bring back to the village as a winter supply of meat and oil. Sarah, one of our tour guides, told us, "if I can just get one or the other, my family will be set for winter supplies."






We (1st Grade Teacher Courtney, 5th Grade Teacher Jamie, our tour guides Matt and Sarah Peterson, our helper/boat hand/coffee enthusiast/generally awesome survivalist Amos, and myself) got our gear ready and left Mountain Village about 7:00 pm or so. In case you're wondering, "full winter gear" means snow pants or Carhartt overalls, one or two pairs of thick socks, heavy muck boots, long underwear, a fleece, a winter coat, a hat, and mittens. Luckily, it's the rainy season, so a raincoat was worn over all of that as well, topped off with a life jacket. One never feels quite so attractive out here as when we are decked out for the weather. But hey, warmth and dryness while on a boat are perks!

Jamie, myself, and Courtney all bundled up with Sarah goofing off behind us.

We arrived in Kotlik, a village very near to the coast, about 11:00 pm. A fellow teacher from the district, Jackie, took us in and let us sleep on her living room floor. She even rearranged her sleeping children to do this for us. She and her husband are saints!

Arriving in Kotlik.

After coffee with another teacher and visiting the store the next morning (it's a rule that you haven't really been to a village until you've visited the store), we set off again for the coast. We stopped at an established fish camp, grateful for a chance to warm up, eat, and laze around. It was here that I got to use my first honeybucket! If you're not sure what that is, it's pretty much a bucket with a tiny toilet seat on top. So fancy!


Our digs. Sarah made sure that Amos made sure it was cozy for us. A direct
quote from her to him: "Amos, you make sure these ladies are warm!"
And then, grinning mischievously, "I know you know how to keep the
 ladies HOT!" Poor Amos. He endured so much teasing this trip, but we were
 grateful to have him. 
Jamie and Courtney get their bearings. Some of our students had recently
been here for a tribal coast trip, and we found their names all over the walls.
We had a guest, mouse Gus-Gus, who was a fan of Courtney. Or maybe we
were his guests?


Our supplies for the weekend.
Jamie and I didn't plan our awesome supper of chili with
hot dogs, but it was scrumptious!

We spent Saturday and Sunday boating around, setting nets, and tootling around the Bering Sea trying to spot a whale or seal. Alas, we saw none, but it was such a cool experience. Amos shot a couple geese. A few salmon did catch in the nets, and we had a fine meal before taking off to return to Mountain. Sarah kept encouraging us to "eat more fish, more! It will keep you warm when we travel." Well, I'm not about to ignore advice from a Native Alaskan, so I helped myself to probably 3 servings. She's right; I wasn't cold at all!


Matt set the net in hopes of snagging a whale.




Sarah overlooks the Bering Sea.


Whale remains. That's my foot.



I had to check its teeth. Jamie wasn't happy when I tried to touch her after doing
so. I'm not sure why she's so squeamish - she is a 5th grade teacher, after all! 




Amos keeps an eye out for possible moose or birds. He also uttered my
favorite quote of the weekend to Jamie: "You put sugar and creamer in
your coffee?! That ain't coffee, that's a milkshake! Blegh!"
I couldn't agree more.

As per usual in rural Alaska during the fall, it rained on the way back. It was a bit rough returning, as we were traveling upriver in addition to the rain. We got back about 10:00 Sunday night, just as it was getting dark. A tiring yet invigorating trip, I hope to get to do it again next year!